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WESTERN HILLS
The Western Hills (Xi Shan) are a range of mountains
spread across a 40 km-long wedge of parkland on the
western side of Dian Lake (Dian Chi). They are also
known as the Green Peacock Mountains or the Sleeping
Beauty Hills, a reference to their undulating contours,
thought to resemble a reclining woman with tresses of
hair flowing into the sea. Dian Lake sits in a graben,
a structural basin created by subsidence of the earth
between 2 faults. The fault on the western side of the
lake created a 4 km-long escarpment of high-angle limestone.
The limestone formed as massive, consistent layers with
100 to 300 m-tall cliffs exposed high above the lake.
Carved into the northern end of this escarpment is Dragon
Gate (Long Men), a group of shrines, tunnels, and stairways
that take tourists to an airy lookout halfway up the
escarpment. Smaller cliffs are also exposed in various
locations on the lower slopes near the shore of Dian
Lake.
There are 2 main climbing areas developed in the Western
Hills so far. The biggest is the Western Hills
Escarpment itself, which lies about 200 m in elevation
above Lake Dian. The second, much smaller area consists
of two crags (so far) close to the lakeshore near Dragon
Gate Village (Long Men Cun).
There are many bouldering traverses beneath roofs
at the north end of the Western Hills Escarpment. All
are protected from rain and are a good way to finish
the day when chased off the cliff early by a monsoonal
downpour.
WESTERN HILLS ESCARPMENT
ACCESS
Access to Escarpment climbing is the same as that
taken by tourists to Dragon Gate, which lies about 15
km southwest of downtown Kunming. The most convenient
mode of transport is by minibus from the Liang Jia He
bus stop, across the street from the Number 5 Bus Terminal
on West Renmin Road. Mid-sized buses leave continuously
from Liang Jia He starting at about 9:00 AM and go all
the way to the end of the road for 5-6 yuan (do not
get off at the Gao Qiao station at the entrance to Western
Hills Park; go all the way to Long Men). From the end
of the road, walk the 1.5 km road or ride the sightseeing
cars (3 yuan) to the entrance gate to Dragon Gate. The
Western Hills and the temples around Dragon Gate are
big tourist attractions. Consult any guidebook or hotel
staff for an explanation of the best way to get there.
Upon reaching the entrance gate to Dragon Gate, you
are now at the northern end of the Escarpment. The access
trail for climbers skirts the base of the cliffs. About
50 m before the entrance gate, on the east (lake) side
of the road, is a stone stairway that goes all the way
down to Dian Lake at Dragon Gate Village. There is a
large sign carved in stone near the top of the stairs
indicating the "1000 Steps" to the village.
Descend these stairs a short distance, for 3 levels,
as they head in a southerly direction. After the third
level the stairs abruptly switchback and turn north.
At this switchback there is a cement wall with a warning
sign painted on it. Go around the wall to the left and
continue south on a trail along the base of the escarpment
to the climbing.
WARNING: Much of the approach between
the stone stairway and the Giant Book area is below
the tourist trails on the ledges to Dragon Gate. As
you can see from the garbage along the trail, a considerable
amount of trash is pitched off. Don't linger along this
part of the approach and keep an eye skyward. Helmets
are a wise consideration.
The last busses returning to Kunming from Dragon Gate
leave around 6:00 PM, sometimes later if it's a busy
weekend or holiday. If you're late, or have the time,
descend the 1000 steps to Dragon Gate Village (about
3 km) and catch one of the numerous buses back to Kunming
for 3 or 4 yuan. Be sure to take the Hai Kou buses,
which drop you back at Liang Jia He on West Renmin Road.
ROUTES
Listed from north to south along the escarpment (from
the stone stairway, south). |