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 >>Home >> Guide

YUNNAN ROCK CLIMBING
BOB MOSELEY, WANG BIN AND WANG ZHIMING
(bobmoseley@hotmail.com)
VERSION: AUGUST 2004

INTRODUCTION

  There are three rock climbing areas in the vicinity of Kunming, Yunnan, only two of which are still active.
LOCATION MAP The first place to be developed was in the unique karst topography of the Stone Forest (Shi Lin), 100 km east of Kunming. During 1999 and early 2000, four sport routes were pioneered on the short limestone towers that constitute the "forest." These were the first sport climbs in Yunnan. Stone Forest climbing was largely abandoned when the enormous potential of the Western Hills (Xi Shan) was discovered in 2000. This area, 15 km southwest of Kunming, currently has the largest number and diversity of rock climbs in Yunnan. The Western Hills still have nearly unlimited potential for new routes, from short, sport routes to high-end, multi-pitch lines on big walls. During May 2002, development began of a new area in a relatively remote valley of Fumin County. Lying 30 km northwest of Kunming, the atmosphere of this quiet, rural canyon is in sharp contrast to the mass tourism of the Western Hills at the edge of metropolitan Kunming. This guide covers Western Hills and Fumin Canyon climbing in detail. A short section on the Stone Forest appears at the end.
  A small sport climbing area was developed near Lijiang in 2002. Lijiang is in northwestern Yunnan,600km from Kunming, and is the only other developed rock climbing area in Yunnan. To date there are 6 climbs in a limestone canyon south of town.
  All told, there are more than 100 rock climbing routes reported in this version of Yunnan Rock. Be aware that new routes are going up regularly at Fuming Canyon and the Western Hills, which will make this guide out of date as soon as it is distributed..

YUNNAN

   Climate: All sport crags lie on the Yunnan Plateau, a rolling subtropical highland, ranging in elevation from 1700 m in Fumin Canyon to 2200 m at Lijiang. The relatively high elevation, at a subtropical latitude (25o N), makes for a very pleasant climate. Indeed, Kunming is nicknamed the Spring City because of its enjoyable year-round weather. As expected then, climbing at the Western Hills can take place throughout the year. Having said this, however, the best seasons to climb are autumn, winter, and spring. The dry season begins in late September and runs through June. Monsoon rains begin sometime in June and persist into September, with the possibility of at least some rain nearly every day. There are times during the winter when the Spring City moniker seems like a marketing ploy by overly optimistic city fathers. It can be quite cold at times, especially if it's cloudy. But if the sun is out, it's going to be pleasant on the rock. The crags at Fumin are about 200-300 m lower in elevation than the Western Hills, so will be comparatively warmer, both during the summer and the winter. It is very rare for Kunming to experience freezing temperatures or snow. Because this is the subtropics and rarely freezes, the frost shattering doesn't weaken features on the face and you end up with reliably solid holds.
   Gear Shops in Kunming: The availability of rock climbing equipment in Kunming is very limited at present, but anything can be ordered from shops and be in Kunming within a week. At present, the best shop is:
o Climber Outdoor, 20 East Dong Feng Road (opposite City Hall), Kunming, proprietor: Mr. Yi Jiabao, phone: 871 313 2783, mobile: 1398 718 0286, pager: 198-87119035.

LAND MANAGEMENT AND ACCESS

   Western Hills: The Western Hills Forest Park Management Office administers the Western Hills as a scenic area. An unfortunate event took place in April 2001. A journalist standing on the access trail was killed by falling rock from the Dragon Gate tourist trails while covering a top-roping competition. This was not a climbing accident. Park authorities immediately closed the trail that they had recently constructed for the event with a cement wall. The sign on that wall warns people to enter at their own risk. The park management authority is very worried about their liability for injured climbers and closed the area during the spring of 2002. A group of local climbers signed an agreement with the park management abdicating them of any responsibility for all climbers, therefore opening access again.
   Fumin Canyon: The climbing at Fumin is in the countryside away from any major population and tourist centers. Right now there are no management and access issues, but be considerate of the local farmers and goat herders that use the area. For example, crop fields lie at the base of the River Crags. Do not trample the fields.

GRADE COMPARISONS

   Grades: The standard for rating the difficulty of climbs in China is the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). The rating under the YDS is based on the difficulty of the single hardest move on the route. This guide follows that standard. See table for a cross-reference various rating systems used worldwide. GRADE CONVERSION

THE ROUTES

   Equipment: Most climbs are bolted on limestone faces. The first bolt was purposely placed relatively high off the ground and sometimes a long reach from the stance. This was done to prevent local villagers from stealing the hanger, a common problem at Moon Hill, China's most famous climbing area near Yangshuo, Guangxi Province.
There are few crack climbs on the Western Hills, although most are very fun. A word of caution--most cracks have been created or altered by water (solution) erosion and are very uneven-sided. Nuts, tri-cams, hexes, and threaded webbing often afford the best protection. Be very careful when placing camming units.
  Helmets are highly recommended! The rock is generally solid, but so few climbers have ascended these routes that some still have loose stones. Be especially careful on multipitch routes and when pulling ropes and toproping. Helmets are essential for pioneering new routes.
  A 60 m rope is recommended for climbing in Yunnan, especially at Old Red Rock in Fumin Canyon where many single-pitch routes are 30 m long and can only be top-roped with a 60 m rope. The same is true of newer climbs in the Western Hills.
   Anchors: Most belay anchors on single pitch routes are chains bolted to the rock. Longer pitches and multi-pitch routes often have Metolius rappel hangers. However, some belay anchors consist of webbing, threaded through solution pockets in the rock, around trees, or through bolt hangers. Some are slung around boulders and horns. Always check the webbing for signs of being chewed on by animals or melting from rope friction. It's a good idea to bring extra webbing to replace or backup old, worn-out webbing.
   Language: The Chinese names for climbs and places in the English version of the guide are parenthetically indicated in Pin Yin (official system for writing Mandarin characters using the Roman alphabet). Hopefully, this will help facilitate access to Kunming climbing areas and communication among climbers on the escarpment. Speaking of which, we have compiled a short English-Chinese dictionary of climbing terms used around Kunming.
   Route Photos and Topos: Color photos are included for most routes. Route topos are included for multi-pitch climbs.
   Trail and Route Conditions: The crags described here are off the beaten path. As the small Kunming climbing crowd has shifted activity to new areas, access trails and, in some cases, the climbs themselves have become overgrown with subtropical brush. Be aware that the descriptions in this guide are written as if the trails were open and the climbs had just been cleaned.
   Nasty Insects: During the late summer and early fall you'll see a bright red caterpillar common on the brush. This beautiful little creature has a nasty bite that raises a large welt. Stay away!
   First Ascents: First Ascent (FA) information is provided in the description of each climb. Multi-pitch climbs were often pioneered over several weeks (sometimes months) by various groups. Names of first ascentionists mentioned in this version of the guide:

Chong = Zhou Chenshu Germek = Blaz Germek
Ma = Ma Zhiyong WangB = Wang Bin
WangZ = Wang Zhiming LiuX = Liu Xinan
Moseley = Bob Moseley Buntaine = Mark Buntaine
Mullen = Renée Mullen Cao = Cao Rongyu
Zhao = Zhao Lei LiuC = Liu Cong
Duan = Duan Nan Yao = Tony Yao and DeAnn Masin
Johnson = Doug Johnson Colwell = Doug Colwell
Stover = Kelly Stover  

CONTACT INFORMATION

   For more English information contact anyone listed below. Also, please keep us informed of new routes,
  changes to old routes, and other interesting experiences:
  Kunming Redpoint Rock Climbing Club:0871 337 2350
  Bob Moseley: bobmoseley@hotmail.com; mobile 1370 849 5921; home 0871 536 6898


昆明攀岩路线向导手册

  本手册的所有内容不属于“攀岩教材”之列,本手册也不尝试描述怎样攀岩。每一位使用本手册的读者,你们应该是具备一定的攀岩经验和攀爬技巧的攀登者,确实了解自己的行为会给周围的环境和人们以及自己带来怎样的后果。对于任何人使用本手册后所造成的受伤,死亡,本手册不承担任何法律责任。

昆明攀岩发展基金

  成立于2000年,作为以发展昆明攀岩运动为唯一目的的非赢利“地下钱庄”,其口号是“不求钱多,但愿维持。”成立以来得到了各族人民的鼎力支持,有捐挂片者,有捐BOLT者;定期捐款者有,短期暴捐者有,有捐现金者,有捐白条者。千奇百怪。但对昆明的攀岩线路数量的增长功不可没。

云南攀岩简介

  云南位于云贵高原喀斯特地貌区内,大面积的石灰岩地形,得天独厚的地理优势使之成为适合开展攀岩运动的地区之一。迄今为止,共有昆明和丽江两个地区拥有成熟的攀岩线路。自1999年起,昆明的野人们便自发的开始从事攀岩运动。昆明地区第一条真正意味上的自然岩壁线路创建于1999年5月,位于距昆明市区东部100公里处的石林镇。2000年昆明的野人们开始开发距昆明市区西部15公里的西山岩壁,至今共在西山开发了接近60条自然岩壁线路。距昆明市区北部25公里的富民县是昆明野人们最新开发的攀岩区。2002年,野人们奔赴丽江,在丽江东南部的一个峡谷里

历史概况

  有关昆明攀岩或岩壁的历史,可上溯至一两亿年前,从那时候起,野人们和造山运动就没歇着。直至一个叫“粱王”的古代理想主义者,在西山绝壁上搞了搞房地产,也许是攀登装备落后之类的原因,在刻了几个大字之后便不知所终。直到近4,5年才有一批宵小频繁活动于此,在岩壁上攀爬吼叫,留些铜钉铁链,倒也逍遥自在。

地理概况

  昆明地处云贵高原中部,市中心海拔1,897米,其中市区面积约98平方公里。总人口400万。全省26个民族在昆明都有居住。南濒滇池,三面环山。属于低纬度高原山地季风气候,由于受印度洋西南暖湿气流的影响,日照长、霜期短、年平均气温20。C。

交通概况 (附图:云南省图 )

  怎么到昆明?不用提醒您了吧。昆明拥有可以抵达全国各地的完备的交通系统,同时省内交通系统也比您想象的发达。

季节

  气候温和,夏无酷暑,冬不严寒,四季如春,气侯宜人,是极负盛名的“春城”。每年10月至次年5月为干季,降水少,日照强,是攀岩的绝佳时期,即使是在昆明气温最低的月份,中午时分,你也可以脱光了爬。6月至9月为雨季,降水较多,但并不意味着每天都有降雨。即使下雨仰角地形的线路依旧可以解馋。

住宿与饮食

昆明青年旅馆:翠湖南路44号
茶花宾馆:东风东路96号
昆湖饭店:北京路44号
  以上是昆明市内主要以接待自助方式旅行者为主的几家旅馆,仅供参考。饮食方面,昆明市内餐馆林立,各地风味具全。其中以顺城街,和平村,宝善街最为集中。至于夜生活,同志们,你们来对地方了,啤酒,比萨,洋妞,茶叶……。
以下是不错的选择:
骆驼酒吧,
红星酗吧,
文林街吐吧等等,
既便宜又快的网吧遍布昆明各地。

攀岩注意事项:

一 需要携带的基本物品:
 1 粪土,足够的粪土(我们当然知道你是一个视金钱如粪土的人)
 2 时间,足够的时间(我们也知道你刚炒了老板)
 3 随身衣物,干季应准备一些抓毛衣之类的保暖衣物。雨季,你那件用来冲锋的衣服可以好好秀一下了。
 4 一双结实轻便的登山鞋。
 5 墨镜和防晒霜。
 6 其他的个人用品

二 攀岩装备
  是的,这里拥有从抱石到BIG WALL的各种攀登方式,也有大量从未有人尝试过的新路线,如果你只是一个抱石爱好者,攀岩鞋和抱石垫是你必备之物。如果你是一个运动攀迷你可能需要以下物品:
 1 头盔 2 安全带 3 攀岩鞋4 20个块挂 5 粉袋和粉 6 50~60m主绳两条 7 胶布 8 保护器
如果你是一个传统路线迷,恭喜你,你可能需要一个大的背包:
 1 以上所有东西 2 机械塞两套 3 岩石塞大量 4 扁带大量 5 单锁大量

如果你是一个新路线迷,你来对地方了,你可能需要一个更大的背包:
 1 以上所有东西 2 望远镜 3 绳梯 4 上升器 5 岩锥 6 还有所有装备店里没人买的那些东东。

如果你是一个开线迷,欢迎你,你到家了,你需要带的:
 1 王二没有的东西2 王二的电话号码

三 如果你的攀爬水平成功的在这次攀登旅行中升级了,你可能需要补充装备使你能爬,或者看上去能爬更了不起的路线,你应该去拜访:
 雪峰户外用品店 人民西路177号 5312325
 山野户外用品店 金碧路崇善大厦1楼 3136145
 攀登者户外   东风东路20号附1号 3132783

四 岩壁状况
  尽管总的来说云南的石灰岩质较为坚硬,但少有人攀的线路还是可能遇到松动的岩石。在多段路线上拉绳及作上方保护时应特别小心。许多保护点是扁带穿过石柱或套在树上构成的。攀爬时请务必检查扁带的完好性。
作为一个野生动植物资源非常丰富的省份,你在这里的岩壁上攀爬时请保护这里的自然环境,尽量少的破坏岩壁上的动植物,不要丢弃任何垃圾。同时,你有时也会因此遇到一些麻烦,曾有攀友在一些地区遭遇过居住在岩洞里的猫头鹰的攻击,被蜜蜂等小动物骚扰也是时有发生,遇到小蛇,松鼠,壁虎或蝙蝠会给你的攀登旅途带来意想不到的乐趣。尽管这并不常见,但请做好心理准备。不管怎么说,是我们闯到了他们的家里。

本指南使用说明

一 攀岩难度等级: 在云南攀岩难度等级是按照美国美国YOSEMITE十进制标准来划分。本攀岩手册采用此标准。( 附表 )
二 名词解释:
 长度:指的是线路长度,而与线路高度无关,你可以用它来计划绳索的使用。
 挂片数:本指南所标明的挂片数包含保护站在内。
 FA:(FRIST ACENT)首攀者。
 时间:当这条路线已有人登顶,它表示首攀时间,如未有人成功登顶,它表示路线创建时间。
 SP:(SPORT CLIMBING)运动攀登,也指打好了挂片的路线。
 NP:(NATROL PROTECTION) 传统攀登,需要攀登者自设保护。
 B:(BOULDERING) 抱石。
 TR:(TOP ROPE) 顶绳攀登。
 Project:开发后,从未被攀爬过的路线。
 Unfinished:未完成路线。
 R:(RUN OUT)长距离无保护。
所有路线名称,难度,由首攀者命名并确定。

 


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