YUNNAN ROCK CLIMBING
BOB MOSELEY, WANG BIN AND WANG ZHIMING
(bobmoseley@hotmail.com)
VERSION: AUGUST 2004
INTRODUCTION
There are three rock climbing
areas in the vicinity of Kunming, Yunnan, only
two of which are still active.
LOCATION MAP The first place to be developed
was in the unique karst topography of the Stone
Forest (Shi Lin), 100 km east of Kunming. During
1999 and early 2000, four sport routes were
pioneered on the short limestone towers that
constitute the "forest." These were
the first sport climbs in Yunnan. Stone Forest
climbing was largely abandoned when the enormous
potential of the Western Hills (Xi Shan) was
discovered in 2000. This area, 15 km southwest
of Kunming, currently has the largest number
and diversity of rock climbs in Yunnan. The
Western Hills still have nearly unlimited potential
for new routes, from short, sport routes to
high-end, multi-pitch lines on big walls. During
May 2002, development began of a new area in
a relatively remote valley of Fumin County.
Lying 30 km northwest of Kunming, the atmosphere
of this quiet, rural canyon is in sharp contrast
to the mass tourism of the Western Hills at
the edge of metropolitan Kunming. This guide
covers Western Hills and Fumin Canyon climbing
in detail. A short section on the Stone Forest
appears at the end.
A small sport climbing area was developed
near Lijiang in 2002. Lijiang is in northwestern
Yunnan,600km from Kunming, and is the only other
developed rock climbing area in Yunnan. To date
there are 6 climbs in a limestone canyon south
of town.
All told, there are more than 100 rock climbing
routes reported in this version of Yunnan Rock.
Be aware that new routes are going up regularly
at Fuming Canyon and the Western Hills, which
will make this guide out of date as soon as
it is distributed..
YUNNAN
Climate:
All sport crags lie on the Yunnan Plateau, a
rolling subtropical highland, ranging in elevation
from 1700 m in Fumin Canyon to 2200 m at Lijiang.
The relatively high elevation, at a subtropical
latitude (25o N), makes for a very pleasant
climate. Indeed, Kunming is nicknamed the Spring
City because of its enjoyable year-round weather.
As expected then, climbing at the Western Hills
can take place throughout the year. Having said
this, however, the best seasons to climb are
autumn, winter, and spring. The dry season begins
in late September and runs through June. Monsoon
rains begin sometime in June and persist into
September, with the possibility of at least
some rain nearly every day. There are times
during the winter when the Spring City moniker
seems like a marketing ploy by overly optimistic
city fathers. It can be quite cold at times,
especially if it's cloudy. But if the sun is
out, it's going to be pleasant on the rock.
The crags at Fumin are about 200-300 m lower
in elevation than the Western Hills, so will
be comparatively warmer, both during the summer
and the winter. It is very rare for Kunming
to experience freezing temperatures or snow.
Because this is the subtropics and rarely freezes,
the frost shattering doesn't weaken features
on the face and you end up with reliably solid
holds.
Gear Shops in Kunming: The availability of
rock climbing equipment in Kunming is very limited
at present, but anything can be ordered from
shops and be in Kunming within a week. At present,
the best shop is:
o Climber Outdoor, 20 East Dong Feng Road (opposite
City Hall), Kunming, proprietor: Mr. Yi Jiabao,
phone: 871 313 2783, mobile: 1398 718 0286,
pager: 198-87119035.
LAND MANAGEMENT AND ACCESS
Western Hills: The
Western Hills Forest Park Management Office
administers the Western Hills as a scenic area.
An unfortunate event took place in April 2001.
A journalist standing on the access trail was
killed by falling rock from the Dragon Gate
tourist trails while covering a top-roping competition.
This was not a climbing accident. Park authorities
immediately closed the trail that they had recently
constructed for the event with a cement wall.
The sign on that wall warns people to enter
at their own risk. The park management authority
is very worried about their liability for injured
climbers and closed the area during the spring
of 2002. A group of local climbers signed an
agreement with the park management abdicating
them of any responsibility for all climbers,
therefore opening access again.
Fumin Canyon: The climbing at Fumin is in
the countryside away from any major population
and tourist centers. Right now there are no
management and access issues, but be considerate
of the local farmers and goat herders that use
the area. For example, crop fields lie at the
base of the River Crags. Do not trample the
fields.
GRADE COMPARISONS
Grades: The
standard for rating the difficulty of climbs
in China is the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS).
The rating under the YDS is based on the difficulty
of the single hardest move on the route. This
guide follows that standard. See table for a
cross-reference various rating systems used
worldwide.
GRADE CONVERSION
THE ROUTES
Equipment: Most climbs are
bolted on limestone faces. The first bolt was
purposely placed relatively high off the ground
and sometimes a long reach from the stance.
This was done to prevent local villagers from
stealing the hanger, a common problem at Moon
Hill, China's most famous climbing area near
Yangshuo, Guangxi Province.
There are few crack climbs on the Western Hills,
although most are very fun. A word of caution--most
cracks have been created or altered by water
(solution) erosion and are very uneven-sided.
Nuts, tri-cams, hexes, and threaded webbing
often afford the best protection. Be very careful
when placing camming units.
Helmets are highly recommended! The rock is
generally solid, but so few climbers have ascended
these routes that some still have loose stones.
Be especially careful on multipitch routes and
when pulling ropes and toproping. Helmets are
essential for pioneering new routes.
A 60 m rope is recommended for climbing in
Yunnan, especially at Old Red Rock in Fumin
Canyon where many single-pitch routes are 30
m long and can only be top-roped with a 60 m
rope. The same is true of newer climbs in the
Western Hills.
Anchors: Most belay anchors
on single pitch routes are chains bolted to
the rock. Longer pitches and multi-pitch routes
often have Metolius rappel hangers. However,
some belay anchors consist of webbing, threaded
through solution pockets in the rock, around
trees, or through bolt hangers. Some are slung
around boulders and horns. Always check the
webbing for signs of being chewed on by animals
or melting from rope friction. It's a good idea
to bring extra webbing to replace or backup
old, worn-out webbing.
Language: The Chinese names
for climbs and places in the English version
of the guide are parenthetically indicated in
Pin Yin (official system for writing Mandarin
characters using the Roman alphabet). Hopefully,
this will help facilitate access to Kunming
climbing areas and communication among climbers
on the escarpment. Speaking of which, we have
compiled a short English-Chinese dictionary
of climbing terms used around Kunming.
Route Photos and Topos: Color
photos are included for most routes. Route topos
are included for multi-pitch climbs.
Trail and Route Conditions: The
crags described here are off the beaten path.
As the small Kunming climbing crowd has shifted
activity to new areas, access trails and, in
some cases, the climbs themselves have become
overgrown with subtropical brush. Be aware that
the descriptions in this guide are written as
if the trails were open and the climbs had just
been cleaned.
Nasty Insects: During the
late summer and early fall you'll see a bright
red caterpillar common on the brush. This beautiful
little creature has a nasty bite that raises
a large welt. Stay away!
First Ascents: First Ascent
(FA) information is provided in the description
of each climb. Multi-pitch climbs were often
pioneered over several weeks (sometimes months)
by various groups. Names of first ascentionists
mentioned in this version of the guide:
|
Chong = Zhou Chenshu |
Germek = Blaz Germek |
| Ma = Ma Zhiyong |
WangB = Wang
Bin |
| WangZ = Wang
Zhiming |
LiuX = Liu
Xinan |
| Moseley =
Bob Moseley |
Buntaine =
Mark Buntaine |
| Mullen = Renée Mullen |
Cao = Cao Rongyu |
| Zhao = Zhao Lei |
LiuC = Liu Cong |
| Duan = Duan Nan |
Yao = Tony Yao and DeAnn
Masin |
| Johnson = Doug Johnson |
Colwell = Doug Colwell |
| Stover = Kelly Stover |
|
CONTACT INFORMATION
For more English information
contact anyone listed below. Also, please keep
us informed of new routes,
changes to old routes, and other interesting
experiences:
Kunming Redpoint Rock Climbing Club:0871 337
2350
Bob Moseley: bobmoseley@hotmail.com; mobile
1370 849 5921; home 0871 536 6898